Taylor
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Try looking for postings by Bill Hastings on this forum – I believe he used his CNC for the same purpose.
Here’s a new design inspired by the diylilcnc:
Sure, go ahead and post your parts for sale! Just to be clear, asprakash is not affiliated with diylilcnc.org.
Sure, you can replace the drive rod on the Z axis with anything you want. You’ll just need to make sure you’ve got the right coupler to connect the motor to the screw. You’ll also need to adjust the settings in software to reflect your new screw settings.
Note that conventional threads are higher backlash, in that you can scoot a nut back and forth a little without rotating the screw. This means you’ll lose a little precision.
Great! Check your local hackerspace for cheap laser cutting tips.
When you buy any HobbyCNC product, you’re automatically eligible to join their Yahoo troubleshooting group. I’d start there, or maybe just write an email to Dave Rigotti at HobbyCNC. You’ll want to note the peak draw for your motors, the average draw, and multiply each by 3 (because sometimes all three are energized at once). Compare this to the datasheet on your power supply. I think voltage fluctuation isn’t as big a deal for steppers, but I don’t understand the reasons well enough to make specific recommendations.
Drew,
Don’t worry! Trouble at this stage is common. You may have wired your stepper motor incorrectly. When the system is powered up, do your motors resist turning? Do the jumper settings on your board match your stepping settings in EMC (half, micro, etc.)?
Oops! The bevel gear used to be required by the build, but we managed to redesign and exclude that part. No need to order it.
r2,
Glad you’re interested in the project! PCB milling is possible, though it does require a very flat/square platform. We have not done PCB milling ourselves, so we can’t guarantee it’ll work.
An extruder would be a great extension. As you’ve noted, most of the motion elements are shared between additive and subtractive machines.
We designed this rig to work with super cheap ~1/2″ plywood. Some folks prefer MDF, though that can be prone to swelling in moist environs. Furniture grade plywood might improve your results.
Yep! You can use this device to make copies of wooden gantry elements.
We have tested with thin aluminum sheet. Works, but takes a while.
Gera,
The link you posted is a project that came before us, in fact, DIYLILCNC v1 is a modification of that design. Glad to hear you’re still working. Looking forward to hearing more.
@Tom,
Funny that you post that link, as it’s the design we started from back in 2007. I’ve just been communicating with a builder in the Netherlands, and he’s contributed a BOM with European suppliers.
@Tom,
We decided to design this rig for folks who want to learn and do everything themselves. We were also interested in folks who didn’t have access to awesome machine parts (which you can easily buy as an American with a large budget). With this in mind, we designed around the cheapest plywood you can buy. This means that our design must account for varying thickness that is inherent to inexpensive sheet goods. That said, once you bolt everything together, there’s no reason you couldn’t follow up with glue after you make fit adjustments.
Belt is useful because it is cheap. It also allows users to reset their bed size based on need. Belt can be run faster – threaded rod usually increases gear ratios significantly (leading to increased torque and decreased speed). Accuracy may drop slightly depending on how tight you run the belt, but the amount of loss is pretty small in our experience. Rod is also really hard to cut without bending, as it’s often very soft as metals go.
I believe this is a version control issue – we still haven’t locked down the process when the design gets updated. The original 3D model called for the Z motor to related to the Z ACME screw at a right angle, necessitating a pair of crown gears for power transfer. We found it saved time and effort to just mount this motor facing straight down/in-line with the screw. Trust the flat drawings for now, and we’ll work on updating the 3D model.
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