Taylor

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  • in reply to: Any updates? #4802

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Hey there! We’re still here – see this link for an example of a recent build.

    • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  Taylor.
    in reply to: Parts for trade #4246

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    This looks promising…

    in reply to: Looking to build…. #4247

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Try looking for postings by Bill Hastings on this forum – I believe he used his CNC for the same purpose.

    in reply to: DIYLILCNC V2 #3982

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Here’s a new design inspired by the diylilcnc:

    in reply to: Can I post reg to sale my DIYLILCNC? #4242

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Sure, go ahead and post your parts for sale! Just to be clear, asprakash is not affiliated with diylilcnc.org.

    in reply to: need help sourcing belt and rods in UK #4243

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Sure, you can replace the drive rod on the Z axis with anything you want. You’ll just need to make sure you’ve got the right coupler to connect the motor to the screw. You’ll also need to adjust the settings in software to reflect your new screw settings.

    Note that conventional threads are higher backlash, in that you can scoot a nut back and forth a little without rotating the screw. This means you’ll lose a little precision.

    in reply to: Help! #4240

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Great! Check your local hackerspace for cheap laser cutting tips.

    in reply to: DIYLILCNC V2 #3981

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    @jhammondgo,

    When you buy any HobbyCNC product, you’re automatically eligible to join their Yahoo troubleshooting group. I’d start there, or maybe just write an email to Dave Rigotti at HobbyCNC. You’ll want to note the peak draw for your motors, the average draw, and multiply each by 3 (because sometimes all three are energized at once). Compare this to the datasheet on your power supply. I think voltage fluctuation isn’t as big a deal for steppers, but I don’t understand the reasons well enough to make specific recommendations.

    in reply to: Help! #4238

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Drew,

    Don’t worry! Trouble at this stage is common. You may have wired your stepper motor incorrectly. When the system is powered up, do your motors resist turning? Do the jumper settings on your board match your stepping settings in EMC (half, micro, etc.)?

    in reply to: DIYLILCNC V2 #3978

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    @wild,

    Oops! The bevel gear used to be required by the build, but we managed to redesign and exclude that part. No need to order it.

    in reply to: CNC / PCB / 3D Printer #4236

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    r2,

    Glad you’re interested in the project! PCB milling is possible, though it does require a very flat/square platform. We have not done PCB milling ourselves, so we can’t guarantee it’ll work.

    An extruder would be a great extension. As you’ve noted, most of the motion elements are shared between additive and subtractive machines.

    We designed this rig to work with super cheap ~1/2″ plywood. Some folks prefer MDF, though that can be prone to swelling in moist environs. Furniture grade plywood might improve your results.

    Yep! You can use this device to make copies of wooden gantry elements.

    We have tested with thin aluminum sheet. Works, but takes a while.

    in reply to: Is this your instructable? #4235

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    Gera,

    The link you posted is a project that came before us, in fact, DIYLILCNC v1 is a modification of that design. Glad to hear you’re still working. Looking forward to hearing more.

    in reply to: basic questions #4233

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    @Tom,

    Funny that you post that link, as it’s the design we started from back in 2007. I’ve just been communicating with a builder in the Netherlands, and he’s contributed a BOM with European suppliers.

    in reply to: basic questions #4231

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    @Tom,

    We decided to design this rig for folks who want to learn and do everything themselves. We were also interested in folks who didn’t have access to awesome machine parts (which you can easily buy as an American with a large budget). With this in mind, we designed around the cheapest plywood you can buy. This means that our design must account for varying thickness that is inherent to inexpensive sheet goods. That said, once you bolt everything together, there’s no reason you couldn’t follow up with glue after you make fit adjustments.

    Belt is useful because it is cheap. It also allows users to reset their bed size based on need. Belt can be run faster – threaded rod usually increases gear ratios significantly (leading to increased torque and decreased speed). Accuracy may drop slightly depending on how tight you run the belt, but the amount of loss is pretty small in our experience. Rod is also really hard to cut without bending, as it’s often very soft as metals go.

    in reply to: Is one of the designed pieces wrong? #4229

    Taylor
    Keymaster

    I believe this is a version control issue – we still haven’t locked down the process when the design gets updated. The original 3D model called for the Z motor to related to the Z ACME screw at a right angle, necessitating a pair of crown gears for power transfer. We found it saved time and effort to just mount this motor facing straight down/in-line with the screw. Trust the flat drawings for now, and we’ll work on updating the 3D model.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 188 total)