http://diylilcnc.org/forum/tags/revisions Free, open-source plans for a low-cost 3-axis CNC mill by Taylor Hokanson and Chris Reilly. Sponsored by the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. en-US Fri, 18 May 2012 00:01:18 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://diylilcnc.org/forum/search.php http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-941 Wed, 07 Mar 2012 16:04:02 +0000 Taylor 941@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>@T4b,</p> <p>The core v2 design is complete, but we're still finishing up the documentation. See <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/diylilcnc/6757291097/">this link</a> for details. I hope to release the rough draft by the end of the month.</p> <p>We tested some USB alternate boards, but were unable to settle on a solution that can drive large motors. We'll look at doing a geared-axis secondary release that could play nice with existing USB solutions, but that's further down the line. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-930 Mon, 05 Mar 2012 17:22:18 +0000 T4b 930@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>Could you maybe summarize what you've already done and what you still want to do to finish v2.00?<br /> And what do you think when it will be finished?</p> <p>I would build a v.1 instead of waiting, but I it would be a real pain to get those non-metric parts, I fear (probably with a lot of additional cost for shipping) and it would further increase cost to get a computer with a paralell port. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post/page/2#post-914 Mon, 30 Jan 2012 03:45:06 +0000 Don 914@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>I started off with CNC a while back attempting the oomlot build from instructables.com and it went great unitll it came time for those stinking barrel nuts &gt;:| grrrr I still have nightmares about it so after seeing this one on instructables I was so happy to see a way around them! planning my build now but had a few questions. </p> <p>Is there any reason I couldn't use .25 inch MDF as opposed to Masonite? I would think MDF would be a lot more consitant in thickness due to the nature of its manufacturing process but what do I know thats just speculation. Is Masonite more rigid than MDF? was masonite chosen solely because its cheap? has anyone out there adapted the use of a rotozip as the cutting tool? would a rotozip even fit in the z-cart? I know I could do the measurements myself to see but always better to ask so Im not reinventing the wheel </p> <p>I just scheduled some time at a local tech school with their laser to cut the panels out. Their laser cutter is a Amada Pulsar 2000W Laser (so psyced to get to use it lol!)</p> <p>Don Mynes </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-901 Fri, 02 Dec 2011 23:16:33 +0000 T4b 901@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>As long as I can use it to cut the modified panels it's no problem for me.</p> <p>I guess I'll order the panel set as soon as it's available. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-900 Fri, 02 Dec 2011 22:50:35 +0000 Taylor 900@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>T4b,</p> <p>The new design will address shipping cost by reducing part count as far as possible. This means you'll buy a higher percentage of materials locally (like metal stock, hardware, etc.). We'll also shift the entire BOM over to metric standards.</p> <p>Once the design is complete, documentation will probably be released over time in blog-form. Last time we did a pdf, but that meant all the instructions got held up until we had the whole thing finished. This time we'll stick to an online format, meaning that we can dump a rough set early then come back through and add polished images and other support media.</p> <p>As for "fully tested", the reality is that this kit gets nowhere near the quality control you'd find on the initial release of a more conventional product. That said, we get the same result over time by working with our users to identify and redesign problems. V2 is benefiting enormously from this approach, but you may still find minor problems if you buy early. We hope you'll see this risk in the context of our alternative approach to research and intellectual property. I can say that the device will essentially function fine, but you may have to use it to cut some mod panels as we do V2.01. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-898 Fri, 02 Dec 2011 05:40:16 +0000 T4b 898@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>As long as I know that the assembly instructions will be coming at some time for the case I run into serious problems and the shipping costs to Switzerland aren't as I horrendous as I think, why not?</p> <p>But please specify "not full tested" more accurate, do you mean the individual kit hasn't been full tested or that there might be some design changes which haven't been fully tested and which could cause problems? </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-893 Mon, 28 Nov 2011 21:18:54 +0000 Taylor 893@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>I'll be doing a solid month of design once my semester ends on December 15. I hope to have a working prototype by Jan 15, but the instructions and related material may follow at a lag. Would you be willing to purchase a panel set before the assembly instructions are finalized? This may also involve buying a kit that hasn't been fully tested, but that's what this project is all about! </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-888 Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:15:15 +0000 T4b 888@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>When do you think the v2 will be finished? </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-854 Fri, 23 Sep 2011 23:39:44 +0000 Chris 854@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>Now that our kickstarter campaign has [successfully!] ended, we're gearing up to do some serious R&amp;D for the next version of the DIYLILCNC design. </p> <p>We've got a lot of changes planned, so many that we've created a special forum for hashing out all the planned upgrades: <a href="http://diylilcnc.org/forum/forum/diylilcnc-v2">http://diylilcnc.org/forum/forum/diylilcnc-v2</a> </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/revisions#post-845 Sun, 04 Sep 2011 09:29:52 +0000 Walrusklasse 845@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>Hi Chris and Taylor,</p> <p>Great work! I just figured out about your project a few months ago, so I decided to participate in the funding for version 2.0.<br /> I like to ask if you are planning to make use of the RepRap PCB 1.5.3 version for driving the stepper motors? For more details, see: <a href="http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.3_PCB" rel="nofollow">http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.3_PCB</a><br /> It;s an Arduino Mega based controller with Polulu drivers and will work with Linux, Windows and Mac platforms.It;s a prooven concept and besides the RepRap also used in the very fast Ultimaker 3D-printer: <a href="http://blog.ultimaker.com/" rel="nofollow">http://blog.ultimaker.com/</a></p> <p>Best regards,</p> <p>Leon. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post/page/2#post-823 Thu, 04 Aug 2011 02:31:05 +0000 Taylor 823@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>That's right! Material on the thin side will work fine, but if it's too thick the slot width won't allow you to insert your tabs. If your heart is really set on thicker material, you can adjust the slot width in the CAD files. </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post/page/2#post-822 Thu, 04 Aug 2011 02:01:57 +0000 Dave Struve 822@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>So i see .21 - .25 is the thickness i should be looking for, is this the range you need to avoid adjusting slot location or is it more specific? </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post#post-818 Thu, 28 Jul 2011 23:31:50 +0000 Veiga 818@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>Hi,<br /> What is the weight of the package with laser cut panel parts?<br /> Is it a single package? What are its dimensions?</p> <p>Regards,<br /> Marcos </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post#post-815 Sun, 24 Jul 2011 22:14:19 +0000 Taylor 815@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>@ MauiJerry,</p> <p>These files will work with a variety of kerf results. We haven't tested the plans on every laser, but there have been no complaints thus far. We do recommend measuring all stock before you start cutting, as anything over .25" will start causing problems.</p> <p>Laser settings are more art than science. We used a 120 watt, but we always recommend that each builder set their own feeds/speeds through trial and error to account for the specific nature of their setup.</p> <p>It's surprising to hear that MDF and hardboard act differently on the laser. You're right about plywood - that stuff is so warped I'd avoid it all together. As far as this design is concerned, any rigid material that's about .21"-.25" will work. You might consider plexiglass if you're having wood burning issues. However, as Bre likes to say, plex suffers from the "binary fail". Looks awful good though! </p> http://diylilcnc.org/forum/topic/before-you-get-panels-cut-read-this-post#post-814 Sun, 24 Jul 2011 21:38:00 +0000 MauiJerry 814@http://diylilcnc.org/forum/ <p>What kerf (aka cut width) is built into the dxf plans?<br /> What are the laser type and settings that you use? (make, model, wattage, speed, power, frequency, etc)<br /> I have had widely varied success with my Epilog Helix 24 40w system.<br /> MDF cuts ok - havent measured the kerf yet though. Hardboard gave me real problems (burning more than cutting)<br /> Plywoods are notoriously variable. I;ve had moderate success with high grade 1/8" ply but other plys will either burn or not cut, within cm of points. </p>